Thursday, 25 May 2017

And so, decision made.

Regular readers of the blog will have picked up my feeling that I should take the plunge and come to live in Rwanda for a year or so.  Hence my purchase of Little Sprout.  I was trying to decide whether to go north to Musanze to live or to stay in Kigali.  Eventually, whilst still pondering things began to move rapidly, Marcie found a delightful house and asked if I was interested in sharing so a week ago I went to look and decided immediately that this was it, decision made.  The house is a new build in a good area, 3 bedrooms, open plan living and kitchen, very well finished with nice showers etc....hot and cold running water!  So we've paid a year in advance and take possession next week.  It's unfurnished so we have to embark on a shopping spree.

I'm getting used to driving the Sprout and yesterday drove right into the city, but I couldn't get the windscreen wipers to work!  This morning I drove into Masaka and knowing JP, (my new best friend)  was learning how to drive asked if he could help....within minutes all sorted , and another young man gave Sprout a quick once over with a rag for 50 pence.  Not that it stays dust free for long with a continual procession of large yellow lorries carting earth up and down the dirt track.  I don't know what's being built.  Reminds me of the trucks moving rocks and earth when the Algarve to Lisbon toll was being built....once we counted over 20 trucks on the road from Boliqueime to Messines on a Wednesday morning.

Last weekend I went East and took the opportunity to visit Akagera on Saturday.  It was rather a day though as we saw hardly any animals or birds, but it's always a joy looking at the landscape.  The roads were very boggy and not easy to drive on , one safari vehicle got well stuck and it was all hands to the pump to pull it out.  As we were all out of our vehicles I did think it was an opportune moment for the lions to put in an appearance....but they didn't.






I was hoping to see some of the rhinos, my driver not as keen as they have a habit of charging at cars, I think their eyesight is poor and they see vehicles as large predators.

We did stop at one of the picnic sites by the lake to stretch our legs, suddenly spotted a lone male elephant walking towards us and munching acacia as he came.










He wasn't bothered by us and walked purposefully to the Lake.


 

A quick drink, a cooling shower



A paddle



A little swim as he went into a hole




 Then to the other side for some juicy elephant grass for lunch

Rather unfortunately at some time during the day  a bug bit or stung me.  I didn't feel it but my hand was very soon swollen and looking rather nasty, I'll spare you the pics.  Thankfully I removed my rings or I would have been in trouble!  So Sunday, back in Kigali I went to a Polyclinic and for £17 saw a Dr and got a prescription.  Apollo had joined Marcie and me for lunch at the Serena and came with me to the clinic and pharmacy....fucidin...very expensive!
Now hand ok but I've suffered nearly all the side effects of fucidin....so I have stopped taking them.  I know that's bad but I was feeling very unwell!

This evening we have a special Mass at the Priory to celebrate Sr Therese taking her vows 40 years ago, and of course it's Ascension Day.

Tomorrow another meeting with the Bishop to discuss what I shall be doing within the diocese, then shopping for the house with Marcie.  It's umuganda Saturday so I can have an easy morning before more shopping!   Then to the cathedral Sunday where my friends are dying to see me drive Little Sprout!    And, Rev. Manasseh has chosen my favourite hymns,not that he was aware of that.

So all for this week.  Hope to blog more regularly when at my house as have a stronger wifi signal.




Wednesday, 24 May 2017

A big day at the Priory

A strange week!   As I wasn't expecting to teach the novices this week I'd arranged to go away Monday after the afternoon class and return Tuesday to teach again at 3pm.  All arrangements made, so I went and caught up with friends.  Wednesday both classes watched Jungle Book which they thoroughly enjoyed, I had the novices write a synopsis of the story and they did very well.  Happily I retrieved my bank card on Thursday.

Friday was a dreadful night and day, I awoke to my bedroom floor under water and a lot of things needing dying out!  It rained and rained,.  Bosco collected me and took me into Kigali to sort out some official stuff, we were wallowing in mud until we reached the tarmac,  I wasn't teaching as all the inmates were busy getting ready for Saturday's 'do'.
On the way back we followed this cycle taxi, the passenger was sitting atop his packages which were on the seat!



This is thePriory



Following the heavy rain of Friday, the entrance was awash so Florence one of the novices was set to bailing out the water before all the visitors arrived for the service.
So three novices were making their vows and one sister was making her perpetual vows.  There were about ten priests present, a jolly crew!  The folk at Busasamana insisted that Marilyn and I wore traditional dress, it was rather over the top, more suited to a wedding really with lots of sequins and bling. Dative tied me up so tight I thought I might swoon like a Victorian miss.



The tents set up ready for the service.

And we all process.  The children at the front danced at various points in the service.


Here are the four about to make their vows.


The presiding priest protected from the sun.  Reminded me of the Raj, I was very pleased his umbrella was pink, needed some gold fringing though I think.


Novices being given their  white veils.


We were entertained by the children at the school....in the background...this school is funded and staffed by the sisters and other teachers.


So a very good day, good food and good wine to finish.  Then Bosco took me to my friend's house and we had a pleasant evening with a mission team.

FB folk will have seen that I drove for the first time in Kigali today.  It was OK being Sunday except I couldn't open the windows of the little Toyota RAV which I am calling Sprout!  It's small and green!  I was rather hot!  Tomorrow I must sort out the buttons...and move it as Sr Therese says I'm under an avocado tree and the falling fruit will damage it.  The local folk were astonished to see a woman driving, and white at that!
Monday, the morning class of novices are fighting to have a ride in Sprout...I said it's very expensive!

Little Sprout

I drove right into the city yesterday!   I set the novices an essay entitled Places I would like to visit and why.   I said be innovative think of the whole world and what it offers....I do not want you to say you want to visit Kigali.  Oh, said Flo, I was going to say I want to go to Kigali with you in Little Sprout!!!!


Saturday, 13 May 2017

In the swing of things again

Tuesday 25th April

An interesting week.  Last Tuesday I was waiting for the transport to return from Busasamana and take me to Masaka.  At 8 o'clock when no-one knew where it was, I said forget it, I'm going to bed shortly and I'll get Bosco to pick me up the next morning.  Thank goodness, I had 11 bags!  It was much better unpacking in daylight.

Not enough room for everything of course, so a hasty visit to Nakumatt to buy a cheap shelf unit.  The novices were at another community so I just taught the sisters in the afternoons,. it's a different dynamic with a new group and you never know who is going to attend.  12 one day 3 the next.

Friday I was able to leave as soon as I finished, Bosco was very prompt and he drove me to Kigali, then off I went to Huye and Nyungwe looking for monkeys etc.  Back in time for evening service on Sunday then returned to Masaka.

It was quite an uneventful week really.  So back in the swing of things after the rest week and getting used to the new students.  Marilyn is very musical and was teaching the novices how to play the recorder, she gave me one with a swift lesson, but I haven´t a clue.  I´ll just sing enthusiastically.  Jubilate is challenging.  Olive a novice bursts into laughter when she looks at me.  So impossible to blow whilst laughing!  I said we'd get her a drum.

This coming weekend I'm heading north to the Virunga National Park to trek the Golden Monkeys.  I would love to do the gorillas again but it's so expensive.  Going to my favourite restaurant for lunch on Saturday with friends so I should have an enjoyable couple of days.

Monday the 8th May.
Goodness! Where did the weeks go?  I've been very remiss with the blog.

So a pleasant weekend in Musanze, I stayed in a B and B run by an English lady, it was so nice talking together....and breakfast....fried eggs on toast with HP sauce.  YUM.
Saturday was umuganda so had to stay in till midday, then to bank which retained my card!
Went to lunch with my new best friends which was very enjoyable.

Sunday, instead of trekking monkeys went to the caves, an experience not to be repeated.  It was pitch black, loose rocks on ground....very dodgy, steps up then down all the way with high risers, thank goodness 2 guides took hold of me.  We were kitted out and had to wear masks because of bats with rabies!  Naturally my glasses fogged up and I couldn't see a thing!  I was so tired I could hardly walk.



Monday was a holiday and I was told I didn´t have to teach.  Alleluia!! I could hardly move let alone engage brain.
So another week flew by, made more interesting by a couple of sorties into Kigali to try and find my bank card.  Eventually we tracked it down.  It was couriered from Musanze to Kigali, but the courier didn't empty the bag properly, and it went back to Musanze!  It should be in Kigali again tomorrow!  Thank goodness I have an alternative.

Spent the weekend with Marcie in Kigali, delicious meal at Java House at the new Kigali Heights opposite the Convention Centre and Radisson Blu.  And the new Simba supermarket there is fab.
Took Saturday easy except for a little church preparation, then in the evening went to the New Cactus with Katy and another great meal including chocolate icecream and squirty cream....and a litre of red!  So good!

Yesterday I took the service at Kanyinya Parish, unusual  for me to be on my own and I was grateful that Apollo could come with me to translate. 

The congregation have started making bricks to upgrade the 'All Saints`loo





 We had enormous plates-full for lunch at the German Butchers.  Apollo's first visit there and it won't be his last.
In the evening I shared duties at the cathedral, first time I've worked with a new staff member, we coped ok.

Then back again to the Priory and a pot noodle!

I was told on Friday that the Novices would be away this week, so I was surprised to see them this morning.  Apparently the person due to teach them religious nun stuff has gone to Rome!  Why is communication in the church so bad.  I was planning to get to grips with a few weeks lesson planning.  Anyway I managed to quickly get a lesson together so all is well.

Tuesday, 18 April 2017

A great Easter.

A massacre in the bedroom. My FB friends will be aware of the trauma we suffered on April 11th.  I bought a large box of red to see us through our rest week, Passover and beyond.  But we couldn't open the tab.  Marilyn setto with her penknife, I could see what was going to happen......and it did!



With difficulty and trying not to waste any more, we succeeded in decanting the remaining red wine from the incised back courtesy of a large plastic bowl to catch any drips.


Embarrassing!

Wednesday we bought stuff for Passover, and lamb from the German butcher plus shank bone which was more like a half leg.  We enjoyed lunch at the butcher's cafe, good and cheap!  Then I went to Marcie's to start cooking for the following evening.

Thursday we again went shopping for last minute supplies, had a quick salad at Bourbon in City Tower, then to Marcie's to finish preparing the meal.
We were seven people from the US, Rwanda, UK , Czech Republic, before we began we had to practice the songs: Jubilate, Dayenu and You shall go out with Joy


The service was well received so I´m glad that I prepared it

I stayed at Marcie's so I could attend the Good Friday service at St Etienne at 8.15.  I was a very good service, Manasseh led the music extremely well.  The service was a thanksgiving with uplifting songs, quite different to the more reflective service which I'm used to.

Then an unexpected invite to join folk at Lake Kivu for the evening, so off I went and had a very enjoyable time at the Inzozi Beach Hotel....I must return, it was great.





Then it was back to Marcie's for the night.  WE went to the new mall Kigali Heights for dinner, spicy Thai chicken salad was yummy.  There is a cupcake shop in the mall, also a shop selling all things Italian, especially ice cream....I shall return.



St Etienne decorated for Easter Day, little lights in the drapes, it looked so pretty.

The service was joyful of course, although Thine be the glory was ditched!  Manasseh and I are going to sing it sometime!  Bishop Louis preached what was a difficult sermon for him, with Kwibuka, the time of memorial for the genocide against Tutsis, coinciding with Easter he said it could be hard to think of the hope of the resurrection.  His 3 brothers were butchered, a priest of St Etienne was killed in the church.......but out of the despair and desolation of 1994 Rwanda has risen with the  hope of the resurrection.

Marilyn and I decided we would have a Pina Colada at the Serena to celebrate Easter and make up for no Easter eggs or Hot X Buns.  I got mine....but by the time Marilyn arrived from the English service at the catholic cathedral, she was concerned we would be late for the next appointment so didn't get her tipple.



Monday, 10 April 2017

Home in Kigali, at least for a little while.

Arrived late Tuesday night.  The next morning Bosco collected Marilyn and me at 10.  We did the rounds of internet providers as is the norm.  Bought a few supplies for Thursday and went to the Cactus for lunch, lovely! The first thing we did was have a pina colada!




Marilyn very happy with life!

 Then back to the accommodation at Kimihurura to log on to 3G, hooray, and get our stuff ready for Thursday.

As usual we left with Peter Safari at 5am to get to Akagera in good time, then an 8 hour drive animal spotting.  Still no lions, but they've just had cubs so we can forgive them for not posing.  Splendid spotting a python basking in the sunshine.  The 20 rhinos are coming in May so we are hoping to see them before leaving in July. 



Lilac breasted roller



Water Buck



Impala


I don't know if this vid will work.  The baboons were looking for mischief

The next morning we went on the boat trip, I always enjoy this as the birds are great and we had the added excitement of hippos, not happy to have us near their babies, lunging at the boat with jaws aggressively open and much spray.  We spotted an enormous Nile Crocodile, but just as we went to take a pic and family of hippos came from the opposite direction and scared the croc. away. 




Angry hippo behind the spray

 We saw lots of the crested cranes this morning.  They are the national bird of Uganda.  Farmers used to keep them as decoration, clipping their wings, but now they are being rehomed at Akagera and protected.








After breakfast we went out for another four hours, seeing numerous bush buck, this was surprising as they are normally very shy and keep hidden.




Bush buck and a monitor lizard in the foreground.

Then a sunset cruise, we were hoping to see the elephants come to the lakeside to drink, but they must have heard we were in the area as they stayed away.  But we saw more crocs and were once again entertained by the hippos.
Then directly onto the night safari when it's impossible to take pics.  The guide wasn't as good as usual which was disappointing, but we did see a jackal, but sadly, once again no leopards.  One day!

Yesterday, Saturday, I went to Marcie's and stayed overnight so that  could get to the Palm Sunday service, but in the Anglican church no palms, no red vestments, I thought maybe because Kwibuka the time of mourning for the genocide against the Tutsis began on Friday, but the catholic church wore red and had palms.
Marilyn and I met Apollo for lunch and had a delightful time together.

A strange Holy Week ahead as I can't get to the cathedral for services.  Thursday I'm hosting a Passover for Christians which I'm hoping will be well received as it's a first for the folk coming.

I'll return after Easter.



Sunday, 9 April 2017

Frustrations and farewells

Now we come to Sunday April 2nd.

I had an unplanned visit to Muzanse this weekend:  the electricity cut out on Tuesday morning, 50 hours later when it appeared that nothing was being done, I had a hissy fit and declared that I was going to Muzanse after class on Friday afternoon.  The sisters were rather taken aback....but what if the electric comes back....  well it comes back, I have made arrangements and I shall go.   All my techie stuff had flat batteries and I needed them for class!  On Thursday morning I did go to the village to charge at least my computer, but we'd no sooner got there than the electricity cut out there also.  I have to confess that the final straw was when I found one of the sisters had gone to the bank, which has a generator, to charge their phones and didn't think to tell me or offer to take mine.  Relationships were frosty that night.  Anyway the electricity reconnected at about 8pm, however it was more off than on during the night and on Friday, so I was very pleased I'd held firm about going away for the night.

Tuesday night the volcano was amazing, the top was completely covered by what looked like a red mantle, it was a clear night and the stars were so bright you could almost touch them.   But for about half an hour the sky was lit by what appeared to be lightning, but it might have come from the volcano, it was like a volcanic Aurora





Another pleasant visit at the Gorillas, then yesterday, which was a beautiful day Eric drove us to Lake Ruhondo, there are twin Lakes, Burera is on the top of the hill, the water falls to the lower lake making HEP.  It's very pretty, lots of storks around which made me nostalgic thinking of Latimer and Lacey who live opposite the Bombeiros in Messines.  We took a boat across to a resort on an island, of course I couldn't get out of the boat, Eric insisted on lifting me which was both foolish and brave!  So a pleasant couple of hours just chilling and talking.
 

Then I decided it would be nice to have lunch at the 5 Volcanoes again as I may not return this way anytime soon.  A delicious char grilled fillet steak, absolutely perfect with a glass of red.
Then back to the community and  the first of the farewells!  I hate leaving and saying goodbye, especially when I don't know if we shall meet again. And today ,  Sunday, I'm packing in a logical manner as far as possible.  I return to Kigali on Tuesday to a community house where I've not been before,.  Wednesday Marilyn and I shall go shopping, then Thursday early go to Akagera, return Sat and I shall go straight to Marcie's house so I can go to the 8.30 English service on Palm Sunday at the cathedral.

I´m leading a Seder for Christians on Maundy Thursday evening so will be busy sourcing and cooking the items needed.  Thankfully I have the order of service prepared and Apollo is  printing the booklets.


Apparently the postulants want us to have a farewell do this evening, so it will be alcohol, singing and dancing.  I taught them Jubilate everybody this week which they enjoy,  But you should see them enthusiastically sing and dance to If I was a butterfly.  I was a little concerned about the fuzzy wuzzy bear with fuzzy wuzzy hair, but they haven't taken offence.
We had a splendid party, the students had written special speeches in English, and songs such as 'Byee byee teacher'  and of course we had to dance and they gave me a very nice outfit made of local fabric.
The youngsters then performed a sketch based on my teaching, it was very funny and  Clarisse who played my part had me down to a T.

It's now Tuesday 4th.  Yesterday was easy, I showed both classes the film of Paddington, I had prepared them as much as possible without spoiling the story. Everyone enjoyed it, and Sr Godlive who doesn't usually come to English lessons joined us.

So frustrations with the electricity, which is off again today, also frustrations because the vehicle to take me to Kigali hasn't arrived yet,  They were going to leave Masaka at 7.30 but were still there at 9!   And farewells when I do leave this afternoon, tears all round I expect....along with the farewell song and drumming.






Tuesday, 4 April 2017

More than just a friend!

I was going to give an idea of the life of postulants and sisters here, but I had such a lovely weekend that I thought I'd write about it whilst it's still fresh in my mind.

Eric, the tour guide come driver collected me before 10, it was umuganda but as he is a licenced tour operator he has a permit allowing him on the road before midday. And we were only stopped by the police twice.
Once again I stayed at the Gorillas and given access to my room immediately, a little too quickly as no towels.....but this time I checked before getting into the shower.  So plugged in everything, not that there are many decent programs on the BBC at present,  then hit the hot water.

In the afternoon I met a young man who's here for 3 months doing voluntary work.  His mum is a friend of Nancy who is a friend and frequent visitor of Lyn and David.  We spent a very pleasant couple of hours talking about all manner of things.  He then went off to meet Bishop Sam, they were going to Skype an elderly gentleman in the UK, from Alastair's family, apparently Sam was a houseboy for this gentleman many, many years ago.
Alastair told the Bishop that he'd been with me so then I had message saying he hoped to see me in church the next morning.  I had planned a lie in.......but there we are, if the bishop 

expects then that's it!

Anyway, I then went shopping and managed to press all the wrong buttons at the ATM, a very nice man helped out in the end, I am afraid there was a very long queue of folk wanting to draw money.


I tried to do some work but there's no direct lighting in the hotel room so I gave up and went for an early dinner which was tasty, and a mango icecream.  I didn't get the icecream last visit.  I'd been awake since 1.30am so was tired and went to bed very early.

Which meant of course that i woke early!  So no excuse to not go to morning service which would begin at 8am.  I decided to walk to the cathedral as it was a nice morning, it took 20 minutes and I got there just as the service was beginning.  It was so nice having an Anglican service and in English....but the shortest sermon I've ever heard in Rwanda!  Barely 10 minutes, not that I'm complaining.








St John the Baptist, Cathedral  

You can just spot +Sam as goes back for the next service.



When I returned to the hotel Eric was ready and waiting so I checked out and off we went.  we had such a nice time, drove around the foothills of the volcanoes, passing a number of new lodges which look rather pricey and include spas etc.  We went to a cultural village which is self supporting and run by the people who were previously poachers, killing everything for 'bush meat' and to sell...killing mother gorillas and selling the babies for $2000 each!   Now they guide visitors through the culture of Rwanda and their wives grow 
the crops which they both eat and sell .





Challenged by warriors at the entrance....not very ferocious we were all laughing too much!

We spent a couple of hours there, I can wholeheartedly recommend a visit.  Eric and I had to participate in most of the activities, and with the onsite guide whose English was perfect we thoroughly enjoyed ourselves and laughed a lot with the reformed poachers who now teach conservation.





Instruction on Bow and arrow to kill, no animals were harmed during this activity.  The little 

guy is a member of the Batwa people who supported themselves by hunting and making pots!  They are short in stature but not as small as the 'pygmies' of Congo.  



I  was made to try everything much to the delight and amusement of all present!

Here I'm grinding sorghum into flour which will have a number of uses including making sorghum beer.







The two most important people in Rwanda were the king and the queen mother.


The traditional huts are rental accommodation.  Really nice inside.





Next up, the drummers, apparently the guys thought I was quite good!





The warriors dance.  
Their sisal head-dresses representing the lion manes
 they wore in times of yore

I'm sparing you the pic of me being made to take part in the villagers' dance

After that we drove around another area, the countryside is so pretty and it was a blissfully sunny warm day.  At Kinigi a small village, which is where Eric grew up and his mother still lives, we stopped to pay her a visit, she hugged me so many times!  I 'm not sure who Eric had told her I was.




I was thirsty by this time so suggested a stop for lunch, We went to the most delightful place; 5 Volcanoes Boutique Hotel, it was perfect.  The dining area upstairs on the level of tree tops.  There are a number of rooms, I would love to stay there but it is expensive, there's a pool and sun bed area.  Lunch was tilapia cooked in a mushroom sauce, and perfectly cooked basmati rice and little veg, I had a lovely glass  of Sauvignon blanc.  All delicious.







View from Bar / Restaurant at 5 Volcanoes.

Then of course it was time to return to Busasamana, a shame to end such a lovely day.  I have to say that Eric and I  get on really well and discuss all manner of things, and laugh a lot.  Probably because I am so happy to be talking English with someone who is fluent also. Eric said he felt we were more than friends, hence the title of this post.